How to choose the right sunscreen: SPF, mineral vs. chemical filters

Choosing a sunscreen can seem complicated given the sheer variety of products, but it is an essential step to protect your skin from the harmful effects of the sun. Several criteria matter:

1. The SPF: it measures the ability to filter UVB rays, which are responsible for sunburn.

2. The filters: mineral or chemical, they should suit your skin type and your preferences.

Also consider the area of application (face or body), your phototype and your level of sun exposure. A well-chosen product ensures optimal protection, helps prevent skin ageing and reduces the risks linked to UVA and UVB rays. Opt for a sunscreen that combines effectiveness, comfort and respect for the particularities of your skin.

Sun protection plays an essential role in preventing sun damage, such as sunburn, premature skin ageing and an increased risk of skin cancers. UVA and UVB rays penetrate deep into the skin, causing cell damage and altering the skin's structure. These effects can lead to wrinkles, a loss of elasticity and a significant increase in the risk of skin tumours.

In addition, adequate sun protection and preparing your skin for the sun help strengthen the skin barrier, a key element in keeping skin healthy and balanced. Adopting a sun protection routine is not only a question of aesthetics, but also of long-term health.

Skin with oestrogen dominance, characterised by an excess of oestrogen, is often more sensitive to the harmful effects of the sun. The reduction in collagen and elasticity frequently associated with this hormonal condition can be worsened by prolonged exposure to UV rays.

In addition, the hormonal fluctuations linked to oestrogen dominance can cause skin concerns such as acne, which can be amplified by UV rays. This is why it is essential for these skin types to use suitable sun protection, to prevent further deterioration of skin health and limit the harmful effects of the sun.

The SPF, or sun protection factor, is an essential indicator for choosing a sunscreen that suits your needs. This number expresses a product's ability to protect your skin specifically against UVB rays, which are responsible for sunburn and superficial damage. For example, an SPF 30 means that you can theoretically stay in the sun 30 times longer without burning than you could without protection.

However, this index does not measure protection against UVA rays, which penetrate deeper into the skin and contribute to skin ageing as well as certain cancers. This is why it is important to choose broad-spectrum sunscreens that offer effective protection against both UVA and UVB.

• PHOTOTYPE I
  Very fair skin, often with freckles, red or blonde hair, light eyes. Never tans, always prone to sunburn.
• PHOTOTYPE II
  Fair skin, blonde or light brown hair, light eyes. Tans with difficulty, burns easily.
• PHOTOTYPE III
  Medium skin (fair to beige), light to dark brown hair, brown or green eyes. Tans gradually, sometimes burns.
• PHOTOTYPE IV
  Olive skin, brown or black hair, dark eyes. Tans easily, rarely burns.
• PHOTOTYPE V
  Dark brown skin, black hair, dark eyes. Tans very easily, almost never burns.
• PHOTOTYPE VI
  Black skin, black hair, dark eyes. Never burns.

The choice between SPF 30, 50 or 50+ depends mainly on your phototype, that is, your skin's natural sensitivity to the sun, but also on the context of your exposure. For fair or sensitive skin, or skin that burns easily, as well as for prolonged outdoor exposure, a high SPF such as 50 or 50+ is recommended for better sun protection.

On the other hand, for darker phototypes, which tolerate the sun better, an SPF 30 may be enough for moderate exposure. You should also adjust the SPF to the local intensity of the sun, the altitude and the length of exposure.

Remember that even a high SPF does not remove the need to reapply regularly, especially after swimming or sweating, to maintain optimal protection of your skin against UVA and UVB rays.

To choose an effective sunscreen while respecting your skin and the environment, it is essential to favour natural, protective ingredients. Here is a list of the main mineral filters and natural actives that ensure good sun protection:

• Zinc: a mineral filter known for its ability to reflect UVA and UVB rays while being gentle on the skin, ideal for sensitive skin.
• Non-nano titanium dioxide: another mineral filter that acts as a physical screen, effectively blocking UV rays without penetrating the skin.
• Iron oxide: particularly useful for protecting against visible light and for enhancing the natural colour of sunscreens, in addition to its protective action.
• Natural antioxidants: such as vitamin E or plant extracts, they help neutralise the free radicals generated by exposure to UV rays, thereby preserving the health and youthfulness of the skin.
• Bisabolol: a soothing ingredient extracted from chamomile, which helps calm irritation and supports skin repair after sun exposure.

At the same time, it is wise to be wary of chemical filters and other controversial components that may be harsh or harmful, in particular:

• Oxybenzone (benzophenone-3): a very common chemical filter, but known for its potentially allergenic effects and as a suspected endocrine disruptor.
• Octinoxate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate): effective against UVB, but criticised for its environmental impact, notably on coral reefs.
• Octocrylene: often used in chemical sunscreens, it can cause skin reactions and is suspected of phototoxicity.
• Homosalate: a chemical filter considered poorly biodegradable and associated with a risk of hormonal disruption.
• Avobenzone: effective against UVA, but sometimes unstable under sun exposure, which can reduce protection and cause irritation.
• Parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben…): used as preservatives, they are controversial because of their potential endocrine-disrupting effect.

Choosing a sunscreen with quality mineral filters, free from these dubious chemical components, is an excellent way to ensure effective SPF sun protection while looking after your skin and the environment.

The format of your sun protection should not be left to chance. It affects not only how easy it is to apply, but also how effective the protection is. Cream, spray, stick, oil… each sun product has specific advantages depending on the context of use, your skin type, the area to protect and your level of sun exposure. Here is an overview to help you make the right choice.

Sunscreen cream remains a safe bet, ideal for covering large areas of the body or for everyday use on the face. Thanks to its creamy texture, it melts into the skin without leaving a white film, provided you choose a formula suited to your phototype and the area of application. The new generations of facial sunscreens win people over with their invisible finish, light feel and compatibility with make-up. Body creams, for their part, are often formulated to resist water and sweat, which makes them perfect for the beach or sports activities.

The sun stick, on the other hand, is particularly practical for small sensitive or hard-to-protect areas, such as the nose, ears, eye contour, lips or tattoos. Its solid, compact formula allows for precise, quick application with no wasted product, while ensuring controlled dosage. Ideal for touch-ups during the day, the stick slips easily into a bag and is applied without using your hands, which limits the transfer of bacteria. It is also perfect for children and reactive skin. Sun sticks with mineral filters can be a more natural and environmentally friendly alternative.

The sun spray appeals through its ease of use. It allows quick application over large areas, including hard-to-reach spots, with no need for massage. However, be sure to follow the instructions for use to ensure even coverage and effective protection. Some ultra-light sprays are particularly appreciated for their quick drying, non-sticky feel and portable format, perfect for families or outdoor activities. For children, choose sprays suited to sensitive skin, alcohol-free and usable from birth.

Finally, hybrid formats such as sun oil, mist or milk combine sun protection, sensory pleasure and care. These original, pleasant-to-apply textures are ideal for those looking for a more luxurious experience. For example, sun oil combines protection with a glow-enhancing effect, perfect for showing off a radiant tan while protecting yourself from UVA and UVB rays.

Whichever format you choose, remember that effective sun protection relies above all on regular application, in sufficient quantity, on all areas exposed to the sun. The right sun product is not necessarily the most expensive one, but the one that fits your needs, your lifestyle and your everyday comfort.

In short, choosing the right sunscreen is essential to protect your skin from the harmful effects of the sun. Favour broad-spectrum products with an SPF suited to your phototype and your level of exposure. Mineral filters are particularly recommended for sensitive skin or if you are looking for natural ingredients.

Remember to apply your sunscreen regularly and to combine it with complementary measures, such as wearing protective clothing. Take care of your skin today to protect your long-term health. To support your routine, discover our certified organic natural care.

The French Society of Dermatology (SFD)
➤ https://dermatologie.org
Resources on the effects of the sun on the skin, the role of sun filters and good application practices.

The French National Authority for Health (HAS) – Recommendations on photoprotection
➤ https://www.has-sante.fr
Official data on UV risks and skin cancer prevention.

The ANSM (French National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products)
➤ https://ansm.sante.fr
Control of authorised cosmetic ingredients, notably chemical and mineral UV filters.