How to choose the right sunscreen: spf, mineral vs. chemical filters

Choosing a sunscreen cream may seem complicated when faced with such a wide range of products, but it’s an essential step in protecting your skin from the sun’s harmful effects. To make the right choice, several criteria are essential:

1. SPF index: measures the ability to filter UVB rays responsible for sunburn.

2. Filters: mineral or chemical, they must be adapted to your skin type and preferences.

Also consider the area of application (face or body), your phototype and level of sun exposure. A well-chosen product guarantees optimum protection, prevents skin ageing and reduces the risks associated with UVA and UVB rays. Choose a sun cream that combines effectiveness, comfort and respect for your skin’s particular characteristics.

Why is sun protection so important?

Sun protection plays an essential role in preventing sun damage, such as sunburn, premature skin aging and increased risk of skin cancer. UVA and UVB rays penetrate deep into the skin, causing cell damage and altering skin structure. These effects can lead to the appearance of wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and a significant increase in the risk of skin tumors.

What’s more, proper sun protection and preparation of the skin for the sun help strengthen the skin barrier, a key element in maintaining healthy, balanced skin. Adopting a sun protection routine is not just a question of aesthetics, but also of long-term health.

What effect does the sun have on estrogen-dominant skin?

Estrogen-dominant skin, characterized by an excess of estrogen, is often more sensitive to the damaging effects of the sun. The reduction in collagen and elasticity frequently associated with this hormonal condition can be aggravated by prolonged exposure to UV rays.

In addition, hormonal fluctuations linked to estrogen dominance can lead to skin problems such as acne, which can be amplified by UV rays. That’s why it’s essential for these skin types to use appropriate sun protection, to prevent further damage to skin health and limit the harmful effects of the sun.

Understanding the SPF index: what does the number hide ?

The SPF index, or sun protection factor, is an essential indicator for choosing the right sun cream for your needs. This number expresses a product’s ability to protect your skin specifically against UVB rays, responsible for sunburn and superficial lesions. For example, SPF 30 means that you can theoretically stay 30 times longer in the sun without burning than without protection.

However, this index does not measure protection against UVA rays, which penetrate deeper into the skin and promote skin aging and certain cancers. That’s why it’s important to choose broad-spectrum sunscreens that offer effective protection against both UVA and UVB rays.

SPF 30, 50 or 50+? Choosing according to phototype & context

• PHOTOTYPE I
  Very fair skin, often with freckles, red or blond hair, light eyes. Never tans, always prone to sunburn.
• PHOTOTYPE II
  Fair skin, blond or chestnut hair, light eyes. Tans with difficulty, sunburns easily.
• PHOTOTYPE III
  Intermediate skin (light to beige), chestnut to brown hair, brown or green eyes. Gradual tanning, sometimes sunburn.
• PHOTOTYPE IV
  Matt skin, brown or black hair, dark eyes. Bronze easily, rare sunburn.
• PHOTOTYPE V
  Dark brown skin, black hair, dark eyes. Tans very easily, hardly ever sunburns.
• PHOTOTYPE VI
  Black skin, black hair, dark eyes. Never gets sunburned.

The choice between SPF 30, 50 or 50+ depends essentially on your phototype, i.e. your skin’s natural sensitivity to the sun, but also on the context of your exposure. For fair, sensitive skin or skin that tends to burn easily, as well as for prolonged outdoor exposure, a high SPF 50 or 50+ is recommended for best sun protection.

On the other hand, for darker phototypes, which are more tolerant of the sun, SPF 30 may be sufficient for moderate exposure. The SPF should also be adapted to local sun intensity, altitude and duration of exposure.

Remember that even a high SPF does not mean you don’t need to reapply sunscreen regularly, especially when swimming or perspiring, to maintain optimum protection of the skin against UVA and UVB rays.

Mineral vs. chemical filters: choosing the right natural ingredients ?

To choose an effective sunscreen that respects your skin and the environment, it’s essential to choose natural, protective ingredients. Here’s a list of the main mineral filters and natural active ingredients that guarantee good sun protection:

• Zinc: a mineral filter renowned for its ability to reflect UVA and UVB rays while being gentle on the skin, ideal for sensitive skin.
• Non-nano titanium dioxide: another mineral filter that acts like a physical screen, effectively blocking UV rays without penetrating the skin.
• Iron oxide: particularly useful for protecting against visible light and enhancing the natural color of sunscreens in addition to their protective action.
• Natural antioxidants: like vitamin E or plant extracts, they help neutralize free radicals generated by exposure to UV rays, preserving skin’s health and youthfulness.
• Bisabolol: a soothing ingredient extracted from chamomile, to help calm irritation and support skin repair after sun exposure.

Focus on ingredients to avoid (octocrylene, oxybenzone…)

At the same time, beware of chemical filters and other controversial components that may be aggressive or harmful, including :

• Oxybenzone (benzophenone-3): a very common chemical filter, but known for its potentially allergenic and endocrine-disrupting effects.
• Octinoxate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate): effective against UVB, but criticized for its environmental impact, particularly on coral reefs.
• Octocrylene: often used in chemical sunscreens, it can cause skin reactions and is suspected of photo-toxicity.
• Homosalate: a chemical filter considered not very biodegradable and associated with risks of hormonal disruption.
• Avobenzone: effective against UVA rays, it is sometimes unstable under sun exposure, which can reduce protection and cause irritation.
• Parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben…): used as preservatives, they are controversial because of their potential endocrine-disrupting effect.

Choosing a sunscreen with quality mineral filters, free from those dubious chemical components, is a great way to ensure effective SPF sun protection while taking care of your skin and the environment.

Texture, format, zone: cream, spray or stick ?

The choice of format for your sun protection should not be left to chance. It influences not only ease of application, but also the effectiveness of the protection. Cream, spray, stick, oil… each suncare product offers specific advantages depending on the context of use, your skin type, the area to be protected and your level of sun exposure. Here’s an overview to help you make the right choice.

Sunscreen remains a safe bet, ideal for covering large areas of the body or for daily use on the face. Thanks to its creamy texture, it melts into the skin without leaving a whitish film, provided you choose a formula suited to your phototype and the area of application. The new generations of facial sun creams are seductive for their invisible finish, light touch and compatibility with make-up. As for body creams, they are often formulated to resist water and perspiration, making them perfect for the beach or sporting activities.

The sun stick, on the other hand, is particularly practical for small, sensitive or hard-to-protect areas such as the nose, ears, eye contour, lips or tattoos. Its solid, compact formula enables precise, fast application without product loss, while guaranteeing controlled dosage. Ideal for touch-ups during the day, the stick slips easily into a bag and is applied without the need to use hands, limiting the transfer of bacteria. It’s also perfect for children or reactive skin. Sunscreen sticks with mineral filters can be a more natural and environmentally-friendly alternative.

The sun spray is very easy to use. It enables rapid application to large surfaces, including hard-to-reach areas, without the need for massage. However, be sure to follow the instructions for use to ensure even coverage and effective protection. Some ultra-light sprays are particularly appreciated for their quick-drying, non-sticky feel and nomadic format, perfect for families or outdoor activities. For children, choose sprays suitable for sensitive skin, alcohol-free and suitable from birth.

Finally, hybrid formats such as sun oil, mist or milk combine sun protection, sensoriality and skincare. These original, easy-to-apply textures are ideal for those seeking a more luxurious experience. For example, sun oil combines protection with a sublimating effect, perfect for a luminous tan while protecting against UVA and UVB rays.

Whatever format you choose, don’t forget that effective sun protection relies above all on regular application, in sufficient quantity, to all areas exposed to the sun. The right suncare product doesn’t have to be the most expensive, but the one that suits your needs, lifestyle and daily comfort.

FAQ) Frequently asked questions about sunscreen

Can you tan with sunscreen ?

Yes, it’s perfectly possible to tan with sunscreen. By filtering out a large proportion of the UVB rays responsible for sunburn, sunscreen enables you to tan more gradually and safely. It doesn’t totally block the rays needed for pigmentation, but slows down the process while reducing the risk of burns and cell damage.

So, with the right SPF, even SPF 50, you can achieve a long-lasting tan without damaging your skin.

What’s the difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50 ?

The difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50 lies in the percentage of UVB rays filtered. An SPF 30 blocks around 97% of UVB rays, while an SPF 50 offers slightly higher protection, at around 98%. This difference may seem minimal, but for sensitive skin or intense exposure, an SPF 50 provides enhanced protection against sunburn and long-term damage.

Your choice should also take into account your phototype and exposure time.

Can I use the same face and body cream ?

Although some products are formulated to be suitable for both face and body, it’s generally preferable to use a sun cream specifically for the face. These creams often have a lighter, non-comedogenic texture, and incorporate ingredients tailored to the particular needs of the face, such as hydration or anti-pollution protection.

Body products, which are often thicker and more water-resistant, can be too heavy or irritating for the delicate areas of the face.

Are organic sunscreens just as effective ?

Yes, organic sunscreens can be just as effective as conventional products, provided they have a suitable SPF rating and contain effective mineral filters such as non-nano titanium dioxide or zinc. These products favor natural ingredients and limit controversial chemical filters, which is good for sensitive skin and the environment.

However, it is important to check the composition and compatibility with your skin type.

Do I need sunscreen in the city or in winter ?

Sun protection isn’t limited to the beach or sunny days. Even in the city and inwinter, UVA rays penetrate clouds and glass, which can cause long-term skin damage.

To prevent premature ageing and the appearance of spots, and to protect your skin from incidental exposure to UV rays, we recommend using a sunscreen with a moderate SPF every day.

How can we protect children’s skin ?

Children’s skin is particularly fragile, so they need extra sun protection. Choose sun creams containing mineral filters, without perfumes or irritants, and with a high SPF factor (generally SPF 50+).

For optimum protection, apply the cream generously, reapply regularly, especially after swimming, and combine this routine with complementary measures: wearing hats, protective clothing and avoiding hours of intense sunlight.

The essentials on how to choose your sunscreen

In short, choosing the right sunscreen is essential to protect your skin from the sun’s harmful effects. Choose broad-spectrum products with an SPF adapted to your phototype and level of exposure. Mineral filters are particularly recommended for sensitive skin or if you’re looking for natural ingredients.

Don’t forget to apply your sun cream regularly, and to combine it with complementary measures such as wearing protective clothing. Take care of your skin today for long-term health.

Sources

The French Society of Dermatology (SFD)
➤ https://dermatologie.org
Resources on the effects of the sun on the skin, the role of sunscreens, good application practices.

Haute Autorité de Santé (HAS) – Recommendations on photoprotection
➤ https://www.has-sante.fr
Official data on UV risks and skin cancer prevention.

ANSM (Agence nationale de sécurité du médicament et des produits de santé – French Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products)
➤ https://ansm.sante.fr
Controls ingredients authorized for use in cosmetics, particularly chemical and mineral UV filters.